India’s Golden Triangle: Seven Days in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur

India’s Golden Triangle is one of the country’s most popular travel routes, connecting the historic cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Ancient forts, magnificent palaces, bustling markets and, of course, the Taj Mahal. It’s an extraordinary introduction to India’s history and culture.

We spent seven days exploring the Golden Triangle, with an additional stop at Fatehpur Sikri. Travelling with a private driver and local guides, we discovered three remarkably different cities, experienced some unforgettable hospitality and came away with a much longer list of places we’d like to visit when we return to India.

Delhi: A city of contrasts

Delhi was our introduction to the Golden Triangle, and what an introduction it was! From the crowded streets of Old Delhi to the peaceful gardens surrounding Mughal tombs, the city offered an extraordinary contrast of experiences.

Our first afternoon took us to two very different religious sites. The Lotus Temple, with its distinctive flower-inspired architecture, is a Baháʼí house of worship open to people of all faiths. We admired it from outside before visiting Swaminarayan Akshardham.

Completed in 2005, Akshardham was one of the most impressive temple complexes we’d ever visited. The intricacy of its stone carvings, particularly the ceilings, was breathtaking. Cameras and phones aren’t permitted inside, so you’ll have to take our word for it!

The following day, we explored Old Delhi, including Jama Masjid, one of India’s largest mosques. Its imposing exterior and enormous courtyard were impressive, although the interior was surprisingly modest compared with Akshardham.

A cycle-rickshaw ride through Old Delhi’s bustling streets was quite an experience. Markets, barbers, street vendors and an almost continuous stream of traffic competed for space. It was noisy, chaotic and utterly fascinating.

One of our favourite experiences in Delhi was visiting a Sikh gurdwara. After covering our heads, we explored the temple and learnt about its langar, a community kitchen providing free meals to anyone, regardless of religion or background. The scale of the operation and the generosity of the volunteers were remarkable.

A short distance from the chaos of Old Delhi, Raj Ghat offered a completely different atmosphere. This peaceful garden commemorates Mahatma Gandhi at the site of his cremation. We also visited Humayun’s Tomb, a magnificent 16th-century Mughal mausoleum set within beautiful formal gardens. Its architecture offers an early glimpse of the design principles that would later influence the Taj Mahal.

Agra: More than the Taj Mahal

Agra is synonymous with the Taj Mahal, but we discovered that the city has considerably more to offer.

We began at Agra Fort, a sprawling Mughal fortress with an extraordinary history. Originally developed under Emperor Akbar, it was later transformed by his grandson Shah Jahan, who added magnificent marble palaces. In an extraordinary twist of history, Shah Jahan was eventually confined here by his own son, Aurangzeb.

From the fort, we caught our first tantalising glimpses of the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River.

That evening, we headed to Mehtab Bagh, the gardens directly opposite the Taj Mahal. Watching the changing light illuminate its white marble as the sun began to set was magical. Away from the crowds, we had time to appreciate the scale, artistry and extraordinary ambition behind one of the world’s most recognisable buildings.

The following morning, we finally visited the Taj Mahal itself.

Built by Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj is one of those rare places that somehow lives up to its enormous reputation. We’ve seen countless photographs of it, but nothing quite prepares you for standing in front of it.

Our guide expertly navigated us through the crowds, sharing the history and helping us capture photographs before leaving us to explore at our own pace. It was busy, certainly, but that did little to diminish the experience.

There’s something quite extraordinary about standing in front of a monument that represents so much artistry, wealth, power and human ambition. For us, the Taj Mahal was every bit as magnificent as we’d hoped.

Fatehpur Sikri: The unexpected highlight

Travelling between Agra and Jaipur, we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, the former Mughal capital built by Emperor Akbar in the 16th century.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site was one of the unexpected highlights of our trip. Its enormous courtyards, beautifully preserved red sandstone buildings and intricate architectural details were fascinating. Better still, it was considerably quieter than the Taj Mahal.

The complex includes royal palaces, administrative buildings and religious sites, offering a remarkable insight into the ambitions of Akbar’s court.

Our visit to the religious precinct was a little less comfortable. At the shrine of the Sufi saint Salim Chishti, we were encouraged to make a donation, lay a ceremonial cloth and tie threads while making a wish. The suggested donation was ₹1,000, approximately NZ$20 at the time, almost all the cash we had with us.

We participated, although the experience felt rather pressured. Interestingly, Darryl and I independently made the same wish: that we’d soon be reunited with It Zwibble, our campervan, which was still awaiting its arrival in Malaysia.

Despite that experience, Fatehpur Sikri was absolutely worth visiting. If you’re travelling between Agra and Jaipur, we’d encourage you to include it in your itinerary.

Jaipur: Forts, stepwells and an unexpected change of plans

Jaipur, Rajasthan’s famous Pink City, was our final destination.

One advantage of having a private driver and local guides was the flexibility to explore places that particularly interested us. Megan was especially keen to see India’s historic stepwells, so our guide arranged a visit to a beautiful one near Jaipur.

These remarkable structures were designed to provide access to water as levels fluctuated throughout the year. Their geometric staircases are both practical and architecturally extraordinary. Ours was free to visit and a wonderful addition to the itinerary.

Our next stop was Amer Fort – also known as the Amber Fort, an enormous hilltop palace complex overlooking the surrounding countryside. The scale was almost overwhelming, with courtyards, gardens, royal apartments and elaborate mirrored chambers revealing themselves as we moved deeper into the complex.

Every section seemed more impressive than the last. From the upper levels, we could see the defensive walls stretching across the surrounding hills.

Unfortunately, this was where our adventure came to an abrupt halt.

After several weeks travelling through Sri Lanka, Nepal and India, Megan finally succumbed to a rather unpleasant stomach bug. Halfway through exploring Amber Fort, she suddenly felt faint and desperately unwell.

Our guide was wonderful. He contacted a doctor, helped us arrange medication and made sure we were looked after. We abandoned the rest of our sightseeing plans and spent the following day recovering at our hotel.

We’d hoped to explore more of Jaipur, do a little shopping and enjoy another free day in Delhi before leaving India. None of that happened, but it’s all part of travelling!

How we travelled India’s Golden Triangle

We booked a seven-day Golden Triangle tour through TourRadar, travelling from Delhi to Agra, then onwards to Fatehpur Sikri and Jaipur before returning to Delhi.

Our tour included a private driver for the entire journey and local guides at the major attractions. This arrangement worked exceptionally well for us.

Before arriving in India, we’d been a little apprehensive about some of the challenges of travelling independently. Having someone who understood the local environment, helped us navigate busy tourist sites and organised our transport made the entire experience more relaxed.

Our driver, Ram, was fantastic. Spending a week together meant we developed a lovely rapport, and he was particularly thoughtful when we were both feeling unwell.

For anyone considering a similar trip, we’d recommend looking into a private driver, particularly if you’re travelling as a couple or with friends and can share the cost.

Our tour and driver

Tour: Our Golden Triangle tour on TourRadar

Private driver: Ram – WhatsApp: +91 98186 28712

Would we travel the Golden Triangle again?

Absolutely, although next time we’d extend the itinerary.

Seven days gave us a wonderful introduction to northern India, but we felt we’d barely scratched the surface. We’d love to return to Rajasthan to explore more of its historic cities, particularly Jaisalmer and Udaipur, and venture further into the desert. Varanasi is another destination we’d love to experience.

India exceeded our expectations. Despite both getting sick towards the end of the trip, we encountered extraordinary architecture, fascinating history and some genuinely wonderful people.

The Golden Triangle gave us an introduction to India that left us wanting considerably more.

Planning your own Golden Triangle trip

Practical information

How long to allow: We spent seven days travelling the circuit. An additional two or three days would have given us more time to explore Jaipur and Delhi.

Getting around: You can travel between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur by train, bus or private car. We chose a private driver for the flexibility and convenience.

When to visit: October to March generally offers more comfortable sightseeing temperatures than the intensely hot summer months. December and January can bring fog, particularly around Delhi and Agra.

Tickets and official information:

• Archaeological Survey of India – Monument tickets
• Taj Mahal – Official website
• Taj Mahal – UNESCO
• Fatehpur Sikri – UNESCO
• Rajasthan Tourism – official website
• Rajasthan TourismUNESCO – Hill Forts of Rajasthan
• UNESCO World Heritage CentreUNESCO – Jaipur City, Rajasthan

Check the official websites for current opening hours and admission prices before travelling. The Taj Mahal is normally closed to general visitors on Fridays.