Rome – a classics nerd’s top 10

Rome is where my heart lies, when I go there I feel as my soul sings. Why? As a classics scholar it is the place that brings together almost all of my favourite sites and museums. Here I can imagine that I’m back in the age of the first emperor Augustus and that at any moment political turmoil could break loose. Or, it is the age of the great Christian emperor Constantine and Rome is awash with different cultures and religious groups forming into one (or something like this). Or closer to the present time where the much maligned Lucreza Borgia’s beauty was famed throughout Rome. I could go on.

With so much history it can be hard to know what to do in your time in Rome. I’ve been here six times, not bad from the opposite side of the world and I still find ways to entertain myself while here. Here is my 10 top must dos in Rome. I could go to these over and over and never get tired.

1. Pantheon

Some places are a welcome surprise. From the outside, the Pantheon (or church of Santa Maria…) hides a deceiving secret. As you walk through the ancient Roman portico into the rotunda, you can’t help but be awed by the scale and grandeur of the former Roman temple. Built by the emperor Hadrian between 125-126 AD this temple is both a work of art and a work of astroaracheology. Upon entry, I always feel a sense of my own insignificance in the world, coupled with an irritation of selfie sticks, and I spend time just looking up at the coffered dome and watching the sun stream through the opening, the oculus. If you stay here long enough, you can explore some of the other features such as the tombs of Raphael and Victor Emanual the second which are nestled in the apses  of the rotunda. It can get very busy here and is a tourist hotspot; watch your bags closely. I’d recommend coming early in the morning or last thing at night. This way you can settle in one of e bars and restaurants across from the Pantheon in the Piazza della Rotunda to enjoy the setting sun as it slides behind the ancient structure.

Location: Piazza della Rotunda

Entry: Free

2. Vatican Museum

Amid the chaos of organised tours rushing through to see the Sistene Chapel lies one of the world’s finest museums, or should I say collections of museums? The Vatican Museum is in fact a large complex of interconnected museums which have been curated over hundreds of years. While the Sistene Chapel and Raphael Rooms are definitely not to be missed, take a moment to peruse the other galleries – especially if you end up deviating from the assigned route. Obviously, I love the portrait galleries filled with long forgotten famous Romans, the treasures from Hadrian’s Villa (more below about that!), and the Round Hall stuffed with amazing statuary of the Roman deities.

Make sure to check out: Gregorian Egyptian Museum – particularly the reconstruction of the Serapeum of the Canopus at Hadrian’s Villa; The Round Hall in the Pio Clementine Museum; the aptly named ‘New Wing’ which includes my fave the Prima Porta Augustae (I’m posing with him above), the Raphael Room – making sure to stop at the School of Athens; and the Gallery of Maps.

Location: Viale Vaticano, 00165 Rome

Entry: Full ticket: € 16.00. Reduced ticket: € 8.00 (children 6 – 18 years old).

Tips: Do book a ticket in advance so you can bypass the queues. Make sure to leave plenty of time to get to St. Peters – in summer in particular, the queue here can be very long and you need to remember to dress respectfully. In the photos above my shoulders are uncovered but I carried a light cardigan and scarf with me for modesty’s sake. The last thing you want to happen is to be turned away.

Info: http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html

3. Colosseum, Roman forum and imperial fora.

Seeing the Colosseum is a must for any visitor to the eternal city. Built in by emperors Vespasian and Titus during the late 1st century AD, the Colosseum remains one of the most visited tourist attractions in the world. The architecture is overwhelming, standing at one of the 80 vaulted entrances and looking up makes you realise that the Roman architects wanted the individual to feel small and insignificant in comparison to the might of Rome. Instead of lining up here for a ticket, walk down the Via Imperali to the entrance to the Roman Forum and buy the combined ticket there. Another option is to buy your tickets online in advance – the marvels of modern technology!

After visiting the Colosseum, or beforehand, visit the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. The ruins might be a bit confusing but you are heading into the political, economic, and social heart of ancient Rome. On my last visit I finally made it up to the House of the Augustus – Rome’s first emperor. There is an additional fee for this but the frescoes here, and in the House of Livia, made it worthwhile.

Location: Piazza del Colosseo

Entry: Full ticket: € 12.00. Reduced ticket: € 7.50. Under 18 years old, free.

Info: http://www.coopculture.it/en/colosseo-e-shop.cfm

4. Ara Pacis

Built during the age of Rome’s first emperor, Augustus,

5. Arches and columns

Stroll through the ancient city and you will probably stumble across a monument to the past commemorating a war or victory. Three arches are located close to the Roman Forum – the Arch of Titus, the Arch of Septimus Severus, and the Arch of Constantine. My favourite changes

6. Shopping locally

Rome is a shopper’s paradise. While it can be tempting to pound the pavement of the Via del Corso and hit u all the major chain stores, I’m trying to get out of that habit and instead explore the the many boutique stores that Rome has to offer. One of my favourites is close to the Pantheon and is a specialist Pinacchio shop. It is very to touristy but it brings my heart joy every time I step in here. I love the tradition of specialty stores, such as sock stores, in Italy. These are definitely worth checking out as I fear they may become an antiquated thing of the past. Just north of the Termini train station on Via 20 Septembre there are a slew of homewares stories and I’ve found these to be great places to explore Italian design as well as pick up some meaningful souvenirs or gifts for those still at home.

7. Museums

Rome is full of museums, and it can be hard to know where to go and what to do. For many tourists their experiences are getting in the sea of people trying to make their way to the Sistene Chapel, a veritable United Nations of frustrated tourists. So many wonders are bypassed to follow the tourist traps. My suggestion is try other museums. My favourite in the Museo della Nazionale Romani located near the Termini. Here you’ll find thousand of works of classical art, well displayed, in a largely empty museum.

Another recommendation is to travel by metro out to the EUR area and visit the Museum of Civilisation. It’s worth seeing the reconstruction of Ancient Rome.

8. Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este, Tivoli

While not technically in Rome, the town of Tivoli is worth a visit. Not only can you see The Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa) which was the imperial getaway for the renown travel-loving emperor Hadrian you can also head up the hill to the most spectacular gardens I’ve ever seen in the Villa d’Este a 15th century villa and UNESCO world heritage site famed for its gardens. Best of all, both villas are off the beaten tracks on you are unlikely to be overwhelmed with hoards of tourists.

Hadrian’s Villa: 

Stroll through the ruins of the villa built c125AD where the emperors love of travel and architecture come to the fore. You must see the Canopus, named after the Nile, where Hadrian enjoyed summer dining. The pool of the Canopus is adorned with sculptures based on Ancient Greek originals. Many of these now reside in the Museo della nazionale Romani but the sense of tranquility is achieved in situ nevertheless. Make sure the spend time in the Maritime Theatre (the emperor’s private retreat) and the stunning Pokile.

Entry: €8, reduced prices available

Getting there:  Tivoli, Largo Yourcenar 2.

• Metro B: Ponte Mammolo station and Co.tral bus Via Prenestina direction
• Bus: Co.Tral bus: Via Tiburtina direction and stopped at about 1 km from the site
• Bus: Co.Tral bus: direction Tivoli / A24 highway and stopped at about 1 km from the site
• Train FS: Station Tivoli CAT bus line number 4

Info: http://www.coopculture.it/heritage.cfm?id=75#

Villa d’Este:

To be honest, I wouldn’t have ventured to this villa unless I had decided to go to Hadrian’s Villa. I’m not into gardens and probably would have skipped it. Now that I’ve been three times, I don’t think I would ever skip it again.

9. Torre Argentina

Cats and Temples. Need I say more???

Entry:

Getting there:

Info: http://www.romancats.com/torreargentina/en/introduction.php

10. Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti: Spanish Steps

Whether you are here midday or well into the evening, The Spanish Steps is one of my favourite places to stop and catch my breath amid the hustle and bustle of the eternal city. I love the mix of people from buskers to hawkers to people shopping at designer stores such as Valentino and Gucci. What a spot to people watch. Traversing the stairs gifted to the city of Rome in 1723 – 25 by the Bourbon kings gives stunning views. I enjoy finding a cool drink on a hot day and staking out my patch of step to observe the city while I rest my feet weary from treading the cobbled streets. While I’m here, the Spanish Steps are often an end of afternoon pit stop before my siesta. From here, I jump on the metro at the Spanga stop and head home.

Entry: Free

Getting there: walking distance from most places. Otherwise metro line a, stop Spagna.